Wednesday, 3 July 2013

Diego Della Valle Sounds Off About RCS Mediagroup

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SOUNDING OFF: Diego Della Valle sounded off Tuesday afternoon about RCS Mediagroup SpA, the struggling Italian media group that publishes the daily Corriere della Sera. Della Valle, who has an 8.7 percent stake in RCS, explained why he has not yet agreed to the capital increase slated for Friday.

“I’m waiting for some important stakeholders to confirm what we have, on many occasions, discussed and considered positively,” he said, referring to the creation of a modern governing body, the dissolution of the current shareholders agreement, the altering of the industrial plan and the review of some of the terms for the capital increase. According to Della Valle, this strategy would “give the company a better future in the publishing business, respecting employees and reinforcing editorial independence.”

RELATED STORY: RCS Mediagroup's Future Remains Uncertain >>

He also confirmed that if this strategy is embraced, he will play an active role, but if it doesn’t happen, “I’ll take note that there is an unwillingness to face the critical situation that I have frequently highlighted and that there is a desire to continue the operation [in a way that is] not in the interest of RCS Mediagroup, its employees and stakeholders.”

Della Valle closed the statement with a message to leading figures in the Italian business world. “Now it’s time to make a clear decision, and for some of us it’s time to show whether we want this country to change, or whether we want to keep everything as it is and as it was in the past,” he wrote.


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3 Questions for Bhava's Francisca Pineda

After a decade as design director for a large accessories company, Francisca Pineda launched Bhava, a fashion-forward vegan and sustainably minded footwear line, for spring ’13.

“I...


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FN Spy: Alberto Moretti's $5K Heel... Tibi on Resort

Ruthie Davis

Ruthie Davis

Photo By John Aquino

Amy Smilovic

Amy Smilovic

Photo By Courtesy of Tibi

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Striking Gold
Alberto Moretti’s 24-carat, gold-adorned stilettos, first unveiled at the Monte Carlo Grand Prix in late May, will soon be available for the taking — at a hefty price. The heels, priced at $4,000 euros ($5,206 at current exchange) will hit Barneys New York, Fred Segal Los Angeles, Harrods London, The Swank Hong Kong and Level Shoe District in Dubai in September. “I worked with the velvet, [which we covered in gold leaf], and treated it as a piece of jewelry," said Moretti. The designer also is unveiling a men’s loafer version.

Dogs’ Treat
For Ruthie Davis, the dog days of summer are about to begin. The designer is headed to Shelter Island, N.Y., for part of July, and she’s booked a pup-friendly bed-and-breakfast to cater to her two Italian greyhounds. “It’s the first time I have planned a vacation for me and my dogs and my husband,” Davis said, adding that she’s a huge fan of the canine kind. “Notice I said dogs before husband,” she quipped.

Straight Shoe-ter
Amy Smilovic went nuts for Tibi's pre-spring collection. For resort, the designer chose an almond-shaped tip to give her heels a sophisticated edge while maintaining a sporty feel. "I want everything to be incredibly comfortable. It should have a bit of ease about it," Smilovic said. Styles range from mid-heel silhouettes with Velcro closures to neoprene booties with treads on the soles to bring in the worker element. Smilovic's favorites include the backless sporty sandals. "I can't be bothered with straps anymore. I'm really into slides and shoes without a back," she said while donning a breezy dress paired with chic neutral flats.


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Highlights from Paris Men's Collections

Footwear stayed simple and sophisticated this week in Paris as designers showed their spring ’14 men’s collections. Black, white and other neutral tones dominated the runway, serving as the perfect complement to many pops of color. Traditional footwear styles such as the sandal made multiple appearances, while platforms were added to sneakers and boots.

Click through the slideshow for more top runway looks >>


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Anna Piaggi's Hats to Be Exhibited in Milan

Anna Piaggi

A sketch of Anna Piaggi.

Photo By Courtesy Photo

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HATS OFF: The eccentric hats of the late Italian fashion editor Anna Piaggi will go on display during Milan Fashion Week in September, WWD has learned. An exhibition entitled “Hat-ology” and curated by milliner Stephen Jones is to open to the public Sept. 22 at the Palazzo Morando and feature everything from a McDonald’s baseball cap to Chanel couture creations.

According to Jones, Piaggi would make every hat her own and “try them on back-to-front, upside-down, pin on a jewel, add a veil.”


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Avon to Divest Silpada Business

In a move to narrow its focus and increase profitability, Avon Products Inc. cut a deal to sell its Silpada Designs jewelry business to Rhinestone Holdings. The sale, which is expected to close today,...


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Claudio Bisogniero's Creative Diplomacy

Italian Ambassador Claudio Bisogniero Laura Denise Bisogniero

WASHINGTON — Italian history defines the art of flaunting high culture to win commercial success — from ancient Rome to Marco Polo to Cosimo de’ Medici, who hired Michelangelo to help build support for his city-state. But these days, with Italy’s government in a state of constant crisis, feting Italian design can test even the savviest Roman’s devotion to “la bella figura.’’

That’s the challenge facing Ambassador Claudio Bisogniero and his wife, Laura Denise, who this year are celebrating Italian culture in America.

“Washington is a special city,’’ says Bisogniero, who operates around the clock to woo friends in high places. “If an ambassador comes here and thinks he can do his work in the old traditional way, to stay in his office and send diplomatic notes and wait for an answer, I don’t think he has a chance. That isn’t how this city works. You need to go out to meet people in think tanks, opinion makers. It is so important to be active, present and visible on the D.C. scene.”

He’s certainly that. One of Bisogniero’s newest gambits is the Twitter account he opened in March. So far this year with 2,700 tweets, he’s lined up close to 2,300 followers — almost 50 percent more than British Ambassador Sir Peter Westmacott.

While Westmacott finesses the benefits of a common language, multiple defense alliances and an able crew of high-profile royal visitors, Bisogniero deploys his own advantages, including a palatial city residence, a politically active Italian-American community and a committed and entertaining wife.

As comfortable pouring tea for two as hosting a dinner for 500, Laura Denise packs the stamina and charm needed to make every guest feel special. “The diplomatic life is all about creativity,” says Laura Denise, whose favorite designers include Renato Balestra, Giorgio Armani and Beatrice di Borbone. “You have the chance to create rooms, tables, beautiful events. But if you take off all the trimmings, what matters most is meeting people.”

At an embassy event celebrating Elle magazine and Gucci last March, the couple welcomed Vice President Joseph Biden’s wife Jill, along with White House deputy chief of staff Alyssa Mastromonaco and New York Sen. Kirsten Gillibrand. Two weeks later, Biden was back for the Opera Ball, this time accompanied by her husband, who delighted the crowd by reminiscing about his wife’s Italian-American father.

With friends and events like these, what could the Bisognieros possibly have to worry about?

Lots. In between those two high-profile parties, Italy’s foreign minister, Giulio Terzi di Sant’Agata, Bisogniero’s boss and embassy predecessor (Terzi took the embassy’s chief of staff with him when he returned to Rome), resigned unexpectedly in March.

As Italian ambassador to Washington from 2009 to 2011, Terzi is credited with initiating the year of Italian culture in America. In December, he made a special trip to Washington as foreign minister to launch the program with a reception at the National Gallery of Art to celebrate a three-month exhibition of Michelangelo’s marble masterpiece “David-Apollo.”

Three months later, Terzi exited in a blaze of recriminations. His resignation, he said, was a protest against then-Prime Minister Mario Monti’s refusal to extradite two Italian sailors accused of murder in India. That charge prompted the beleaguered technocrat famously to declare to parliamentary investigators looking into the Indian affair, “This government can’t wait to be relieved of its duty.” (Monti still had to wait a month for Enrico Letta to succeed him in April.)


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Acne Studios Plans String of Store Openings

PARIS — A clutch of boutique openings in Europe and Asia should push Acne Studios past the revenue threshold of 100 million euros, or $130 million, this year.

Detailing...


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Urban Outfitters to Unveil Lifestyle Concept

NEW YORK — Urban Outfitters Inc. will build its largest store in the world at 1333 Broadway in Manhattan to unveil a new “lifestyle center” concept.

The...


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Belk to Sponsor 'Project Runway'

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Belk Inc., the regional department store chain in the South, is seeking national exposure by sponsoring the 12th season of “Project Runway.”

“‘Project Runway’ will provide us the perfect opportunity to extend the Belk brand,” said Belk president and chief merchandising officer Kathryn Bufano. “As the authority on lifestyle and fashion in the South, we are looking forward to adding our perspective to the show.”

Belk operates 301 stores in 16 Southern states, though the company actually sells to consumers in every state through Belk.com. Twenty percent of Belk’s e-commerce is from outside the brick-and-mortar footprint. The retailer already gets some national exposure when ESPN broadcasts the annual Belk Bowl, and the company does conduct some national advertising.

The 12th season of “Project Runway” begins in September and is taping episodes. As part of the deal, Belk pulled together an accessory wall with more than 200 looks that will be incorporated into the contestants’ runway looks during the season.

In addition, Belk will challenge the designer contestants to create a collection inspired by Belk’s lifestyle marketing campaign, “Modern. Southern. Style.” For that design challenge, John Thomas, Belk’s executive vice president of private brands, will be a guest judge on the show. The winner will have the opportunity to design and sell an exclusive line at Belk.

“We’re very pleased to have Belk as our retail partner. The way they carefully curate their collection is a perfect fit for the show, not only for our designers and the models on the runway but also for our fashion-conscious viewers at home,” said Meryl Poster, executive producer of “Project Runway” and president of television for The Weinstein Co., which produces the reality show hosted by Heidi Klum.

During the “Project Runway” season, belk.com/projectrunway will have information about the accessories seen on the show, as well as video clips and featured products based on the winning designs. Belk will also sponsor Facebook-based sweepstakes. Entrants will be eligible to win either a selection from the accessories wall or a trip to New York to see a taping of “Project Runway.” The sweepstakes opens Aug. 8 at facebook.com/belk and ends midnight Oct. 25.

Previously, Lord & Taylor was the retail sponsor. “We had a great couple of seasons with them. We’re focused on other initiatives for fall,” said a Lord & Taylor spokesman.


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British Vogue Survey Measures Ad Influence

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RULES OF ENGAGEMENT: Sixty-four percent of British consumers believe monthly magazine advertising - together with samples in magazines - are the most trusted “paid” touch points that assist in the decision-making process prior to investing in fashion or beauty brands.

That’s one of the key findings of a British Vogue survey of 2,328 respondents for its 2013 Business Report. It examined the impact and influence of paid advertising, brand-owned channels and recommendations via PR or word-of-mouth.

Face-to-face recommendations topped the tables as the most trusted source of influence at 69 percent, while brand-owned channels were only trusted by 47 percent of respondents.

The YouGov survey, commissioned by British Vogue, examines the power of print glossies (Vanity Fair and the U.K. editions of Vogue, Tatler, Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, Marie Claire, In Style and Grazia), magazine Web sites and their digital editions, and their relationship with the reader in today’s media landscape.

It found that advertising engagement across the various magazine platforms is high, with increases versus 2011, the last time a business report was commissioned.

Amongst monthly readers, print ad engagement is 93 percent (compared to 91 percent in 2011); ad engagement for digital editions has increased to 71 percent; and Web sites show similarly strong growth, with ad engagement up to 71 percent from 60 percent.

The findings also found that social media usage remains static compared to 2011, although and a third of respondents now use Pinterest, while Foursquare usage has doubled.


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Prada Protests Sailing Race Requirement

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CHOPPY WATERS: It’s been a choppy year for the 34th America’s Cup sailing contenders, with the capsize on May 9 of the Artemis Racing AC72 during a San Francisco Bay training session, which killed Artemis crew member Andrew “Bart” Simpson. Now, with a formal protest filed by Prada’s Luna Rossa team, the America’s Cup is still in troubled waters.

In the wake of the Artemis tragedy, America’s Cup Regatta Director Iain Murray met with the four competing teams – Oracle Team USA, Emirates Team New Zealand, Artemis Racing and Luna Rossa Challenge – and led a review of the events responsible for the boat’s capsize. On May 22, he presented 37 recommendations to increase safety for America’s Cup participants, and at the end of June, he issued regatta notices concerning the appropriate structure of rudders and rudder elevators.

On July 2, Prada’s Luna Rossa Challenge submitted a protest before the America’s Cup international jury, taking issue with Murray’s regatta notices 185 and 189 and claiming that he had “exceeded his jurisdiction and authority.” At the heart of the complaint, Luna Rossa contended that the notices were a violation of the Class Rule, which requires that changes mid-competition be approved by the unanimous consent of participants.

This move is “a clear attempt to make illegal our boat just days before the start of the race,” said a statement from the Luna Rossa team.

“Luna Rossa is indeed in favor of the introduction of new and more stringent safety regulations (it has approved 35 out of 37 recommendations of the regatta director), but the measures regarding rudders, rudder elevators as well as the increased displacement have nothing to do with safety,” but affect only speed and performance, the statement continued.

Prada’s team requested that its protest be heard ahead of the July 7 round robins, in which Luna Rossa Challenge will go up against Emirates Team New Zealand.


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European Stock Markets Fall

LONDON — European stock markets were down in mid-morning trading on Wednesday, led by Milan’s FTSE MIB, which fell 1.7 percent to 15,100.90.

The DAX in Frankfurt...


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Paul Deneve Hired by Apple

Paris — The Internet lit up late Tuesday with news that Paul Deneve, formerly the chief executive officer of Yves Saint Laurent, has returned to Apple.

According to...


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